JANUARY 16 & 17, 2014
Amidst the coldest winter in memory, we decided to escape Wisconsin by heading west to spend time in the East. We were both excited and nervous about our first destination, Bangkok, because of the unrest that had been roiling the city for the past few months. In fact, three days before we left, the opposition in Thailand planned to shutdown Bangkok until they overthrew the government. It promised to be a show with everything but Yul Brynner.
We awoke early to take a taxi at 5:25 am to Dane County Regional Airport (once used as an air force base during WWII to fend off the German Menace then threatening Wisconsin) for our 7:45 am flight to Denver. Since it would take approximately 26 hours to reach our final destination, we wanted to see how Becky would hold up. And so we began a series of photos chronicling the effects of such extended travel.
Looking good and fit at MSN for her extended journey.
Our flight to Denver was uneventful and we arrived on time (we were originally a little concerned as the scheduled layover in the Mile High City was only 42 minutes) at the largest airport by area in the United States (a fun fact for you!). Since our layover was short, we had no time for an omelette, Denver or otherwise.
About to board for San Francisco and looking good after the first leg of our trip.
Our flight into SFO was also on time and without incident - although we had to wait on the runway for 15 minutes because our gate was occupied by another plane before de-boarding. Although the climax in Bullit took place at SFO, we saw no sign of Steve McQueen's ghost while heading to our next flight. Becky should have worn the obligatory flowers in her hair and sampled the delicious San Francisco Treat of Rice-A-Roni, however, she was more concerned with making sure her phone had a full charge for the long flight to Tokyo.
No sign of wear and tear at SFO
Becky obviously disturbed at learning that we had no personal video screen for the flight across the Pacific.
Becky's horror turned into a further nightmare when the flight's first film began without any sound and only Japanese subtitles. It took the flight crew a while before they realized the problem and apologized profusely to the first class passengers. Apparently, us Steerage passengers weren't worthy of an apology.
One bizarre moment happened about five hours into the flight when a flight attendant brought a plate of fancy french cheeses and fruit and informed us that because I ordered a vegetarian meal earlier, I was entitled to the sumptuous fromage plate
We also struck up a long conversation with the woman from California (by way of St. Augustine, Florida) next to us who was also flying to Bangkok for the first time. She was going to Thailand for a month between jobs and had similar concerns about the Bangkok Shutdown. This would not be the last time we would see her.
When we approached Narita International Airport, I expected to get a glimpse of the wonders of Tokyo. Sadly, I saw only fields, a few roads, and some small buildings as the sun set while we landed (it was approaching 5 pm in Japan). I learned later that Narita is 35 miles from Tokyo.
Upon arrival, we were concerned that we might be detained if we whistled the tune from One Night in Bangkok since the song was about chess and the former eccentric grandmaster, Bobby Fischer, had been detained and deported from Narita in 2004. Luckily, as you can see from this exclusive film footage, the Japanese were more than welcoming:
Becky being greeted warmly by our Japanese hostess upon arrival at NRT
Ancient Samurai drawings recently uncovered by archeologists at the airport
We had less than one hour to explore the flagship Japanese airport, so we started off earnestly. Bypassing the free sake shots that were being handed out to bleary eyed people coming off our flight, we headed for toilets, the one area that will tell you instantly everything you need to know about a country. And we weren't disappointed. The men's room had the whole range of latrine methods from the simple hole in the ground to a electronic toilet seat with a host of buttons on it. Becky fiddled around with the fancy buttons on the women's toilet and found that they would do everything from spraying water out of the bowl to making a fake flushing noise. A faking flushing noise. Everyman needs one of those in his toilet.
Having inspected the powder room, we moved on to the airport souvenir shop. We saw all sorts of things we could buy for the children but they were all marked in Yen. And we had no idea what the exchange rate to the dollar was. Did 400 Yen for a small origami kit mean we would have to delve into our imaginary Swiss Bank Account? Or was it affordable? We turned to leave, afraid of blowing the kids' college savings at an airport gift shop, when I saw the exchange rate posted by the cashier. Imagine that! It turn out it was 102 Yen to the dollar. We quickly bought the children some small tacky souvenirs and headed to our gate as the plane had already began seating.
Once on board another 747, also known as the Jumbo Jet, we discovered that we were once again assigned a seat next to our gal from California (by way of St. Augustine). Oddly coincidental? Or were we being tailed by a CIA spy? Being exhausted, all three of us crashed for most of the seven hour flight to Bangkok. We even passed up the meal service as our bodies had no idea what time it was.
Finally, over 26 hours after leaving Madison, we landed in Bangkok at 11 pm local time (it was 10 am Friday back in Madison). Strangely wide awake, we quickly made our way through immigration and customs as we had only carry-on luggage. Once into the regular area of the airport, we withdrew some Thai Baht out of the ATM, bought some drinks (I got the obligatory guava juice - Becky bought strawberry tea - who buys strawberry flavored items in Thailand?) to get some small change and took the our last airport photo to show the effect of 26 hours of travels on Becky.
Still looking fantastic at BKK
We then grabbed a taxi, who took us on a mad 25 minute drive (driving fast and furious like my younger self as a cab driver 25 years ago) to our hotel in downtown Bangkok. He apologized when he took one sharp turn particularly fast.
We quickly checked into our hotel in the bright, modern, and cheery lobby of the iSanook. We inspected our room and found it had another one of those windows that had a great view of the toilet from the sleeping area. Same as we had had in Istanbul the year before. What's up with that?
Apparently, privacy is optional
We FaceTimed the 'rents to let them know we had arrived safely. They informed us that there had been a grenade attack in Bangkok earlier in the day (the taxi driver had complained about the protesters - or maybe he was praising them - it was hard to tell with his limited English and our complete lack of any ability to speak the native tongue). An auspicious beginning to our trip.
By this point, just after Midnight, Becky was up for a late-night snack. The reception guy told us there was a 7-Eleven around the corner. A 7-Eleven? In Bangkok? I traveled ten thousand miles just so I could go to the same convenience store a few blocks from my home in Madison? Awesome!
After a short walk through the warm tropical night, Becky purchased some chocolate and a crustless sandwich (which we were to encounter throughout Southeast Asia). On our way back to the hotel, we saw what we thought was a pretty little temple next to our hotel. We were to learn later that when a new building is constructed, it disturbs the spirits living on the land. So the Thais build a nice little house for the spirits to move into. Every day, the locals leave food and drink for the spirits at their little home. But with the lighting on it, I don't think the spirits were getting a lot of sleep.
By this point, just after Midnight, Becky was up for a late-night snack. The reception guy told us there was a 7-Eleven around the corner. A 7-Eleven? In Bangkok? I traveled ten thousand miles just so I could go to the same convenience store a few blocks from my home in Madison? Awesome!
After a short walk through the warm tropical night, Becky purchased some chocolate and a crustless sandwich (which we were to encounter throughout Southeast Asia). On our way back to the hotel, we saw what we thought was a pretty little temple next to our hotel. We were to learn later that when a new building is constructed, it disturbs the spirits living on the land. So the Thais build a nice little house for the spirits to move into. Every day, the locals leave food and drink for the spirits at their little home. But with the lighting on it, I don't think the spirits were getting a lot of sleep.
That's the Spirit
Finally, we found sleep. Next up, does one night in Bangkok make a hard man humble?
