The Grand Palace and Beyond

January 18, 2014

The Grand Place has been the official residence of the Kings of Siam (and later modern day Thailand) since 1782. Although the King has not lived here since 1925, the Grand Place is still the center of ceremony and monarchy. Instead of being one giant building like a traditional European palace, the Grand Palace consists of numerous buildings set around open lawns, gardens, and courtyards (though there is no Marriott on the grounds).

As we entered the grounds of the Grand Palace, we joined a long queue of people in what we thought was the ticket line. However, palace workers kept gesturing at us as if we could skip the line and move on. Great, another ploy to get us to hire a private guide at exorbitant rates. Then we realized we were in a line for people who were too scantily dressed for the sacred and venerated palace.

If your attire (or lack of attire) could cause excitement among your fellow palace goers, the palace would supply you with a more conservative outfit. Being prudish Americans with a good Puritan upbringing, we were allowed to bypass the line in our modest digs.

On the grounds of the Grand Place - clothing still intact

Having made it past the clothing police, we headed for the Wat Phra Kaew which is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Wat Phra Kaew is the most sacred Buddhist Temple in all of Thailand. It consists of several buildings, the highlight which is the central ubosoth (the holiest prayer room in a Buddhist temple) containing the actual statue of the Emerald Buddha.

As we entered the temple complex, we immediately discovered that this was a much more heavily guarded temple than the Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, the Chinese Buddhist temple we had visited that morning. Whereas the earlier temple's Guardians of World were only allowed to carry parasols, pagodas, and mandolins for weapons - the Guardians at the Wat Phra Kaew were allowed nasty looking swords.

She makes a fine Guardian of the World, doesn't she?

Our first stop in the temple was the Phra Si Ratana Chedi. Chedi is the Thai word for a Buddhist Stupa. Stupas can be bell like structures containing Buddhist relics (often the ashes of Buddhist monks) and are used as places of meditation. The golden Phra Si Ratana Chedi is said to contain an actual piece of the Buddha's breastbone.

The Phra Si Ratana Chedi - covered in golden Italian mosaics 

In the hot tropical sun, a Chinese guard looks wistfully at the refreshing bottle of water.

After being accosted by the Chinese guard for my water, we ran into Hanuman, a Hindu god who is also a vanara, a monkey-like creature.

By George, I am curious about these Hanuman

We also spotted a Kinnaris who, in Southeast Asian mythology, are half-bird, half-women creatures known for their dance, song, and poetry. They are also a traditional symbol of feminine beauty, grace and accomplishment.

Please no dance, song, or poetry!

Reminded by the thought of poetry, Becky realized she had an overdue book in her backpack. Remembering the Madison Public Library's return the book to any library policy, we frantically looked for the nearest library. Luckily, the Mondop Library was on the temple grounds. Unfortunately, two fearsome looking Guardians of the World barred us from returning the book.

Returns not allowed at the Mondop Library

The library was also protected by Nāga, the Hindu and Buddhist deity, who takes the form of a five headed king cobra.

Nāga, sworn enemy of Rikki Tikki Tavi, but best buddies of Lord Voldemort's pet, Nagini.

Afraid the Library Cop from Seinfeld might track her down in Southeast Asia, Becky tried to give herself some good karma by greeting Nāga in the traditional American Midwestern style.

Yo Nāga!

Sill worried about her over-due library book, Becky thought she could exorcise those personal demons by dancing with demon guardians holding up a stupa.

Dance of the Demons

Finally, we had reached the building which houses the statue of the Emerald Buddha. According to legend, the statue was created in India in 43 BC. However, art historians argue that it was carved out of jade in northern Thailand around the 15th Century AD. Whatever the truth, the 26 inch Emerald Buddha is deeply revered and venerated in Thailand and only the Thai King is allowed to touch it.

Although we were allowed to enter the building housing it after removing our shoes, we were prohibited from taking a photo of the Emerald Buddha.

Inside the Emerald Buddha is on display

After seeing the Emerald Buddha, we left the Wat Phra Kaew complex and headed back to the main palace grounds. 

Traditional good-bye at the Wat Phra Kaew exit

We passed the another beautiful building on the palace grounds called the Phra Thinang Boromphiman. Outside, a modern Guardian of the World stood ready to prevent any loud and boisterous American Midwesterns from entering.

These Guardians have moved from swords to guns.

As we approached the main exit to the palace grounds, we said farewell to a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Becky in good spirits when she realized the Royal Thai Army soldiers were not going to accost us about her overdue library book.

Grabbing a refreshing bottle of ice tea on the streets, we headed for our next cultural hot-spot, the Wat Pho, home to the giant reclining Buddha. But before arriving there, we did what any good tourist does, and perused the Buddhist amulets at the Ta Prachan Market.

Stalls upon stalls sold tiny amulets with thousands of images of different animals, Buddhas, monks, and even phalluses. These amulets supposedly can bring good luck, true love, money, or even wild sex. The amulets are usually manufactured by monks and fortunes are made from selling the amulets, causing allegations of corrupt monks and temples. 

Will it be true love or wild sex today?

Next up: the Wat Pho don't serve no Pho!